Replace Rear Axle Bearings and Seals for a 1989 Land Cruiser FJ62
Estimated Time: 2 Hours
Tools Needed:
21mm deep 1/2" socket
24mm 1/2" socket
1/2" ratchet
3/8 ratchet
14mm deep 3/8" socket
12mm 3/8" socket
10mm box wrench
Impact gun/breaker bar
Sledge hammer
Heel bar or angled pry bar
Flat chisel or drift
Drill
Wire wheel for drill
Slide Hammer
Bearing/Race Driver
Bungee Cord
Parts:
3 quarts 80w90 GL5
2 axle bearings CENTRIC 41344000
2 axle seals CENTRIC 41744021
Step 1:
Mount vehicle securely on jack stands, chock the front wheels, and remove rear wheels by removing 21mm lug nuts.
Step 2:
Remove rear brake drum assembly. Jar drum loose with a sledge hammer near the circumference of the drum. The drum should slide off with some encouragement via a pry bar, heel bar, large flat blade screwdriver, etc. Be patient and remove drum evenly, top to bottom, side to side.
Step 3:
Loosen and remove 24mm drain plug from differential housing. Place an appropriate receptacle to catch the old gear oil. Remove the 24mm fill plug from the inspection cover.
(Pro Tip: lower and remove the spare tire for additional maneuvering space.)
Step 4:
Remove both 12mm sway bar bushing shackle bolts and secure the rear sway bar to the rear bumper support with a bungee cord. (You can remove the entire sway bar assembly, if desired, but it is not necessary). Remove 1 12mm bolt from parking brake equalizer cable that is attached to the rear differential cover.
Step 5:
Remove all 14mm nuts and associated washers from the differential inspection cover. (The cover may resist coming off; if so, use a narrow and flat chisel/drift and attempt to drive it between the inspection cover and the face of the differential housing.) You may need to gently pry in different spots to free the inspection cover and remove it.
Step 6:
Take note of the retaining bolt for the cross pin. Rotate the differential carrier assembly until the cross pin bolt is accessible. DO NOT STEP ON THE BRAKE PEDAL with any substantial force while the brake drums are removed. This will result in the pistons popping out of the wheel cylinders, brake fluid on everything, and a continued sense of remorse for not heeding this warning.
(Pro Tip: Leave the vehicle in neutral; unbolt the drive shaft; disconnect the shift cable and move gear selector 2 engagements until in reverse.)
Step 7:
Secure the ring gear and loosen 10mm cross pin bolt with wrench. Push cross pin TOWARDS YOU and out of the differential carrier. Rotate carrier until inspection hole is visible.
Step 8:
Push in both axle shafts, one at a time, and remove the c-clip. Oftentimes, the c -clip will just fall out once the axle has been adequately inserted, but sometimes it will need coercion with a magnet. Once c-clips are removed, pull out the axles completely.
Step 9:
Use a heel bar or angle pry and, using the inner lip of the axle seal, pry the seal free from the bore of the axle tube.
Step 10:
Use a 5 or 10lb slide hammer and remove axle bearings.
(Pro Tip: using a propane/MAP torch may be necessary. Heat up the bore of the axle tube and not the bearing. Using a penetrating oil may be of help, too.)
Step 11:
Repeat steps 9 and 10 to remove the axle seal and bearing for both sides.
Step 12:
Use a bearing/race driver and hammer the bearing into the axle tube. Make sure that the driver is nearly equivalent to the circumference of the bearing. DO NOT hammer the bearing rollers. The bearing will seat on a stepped lip on the inside of the tube. Knock the bearing into place until you hear a distinct tonal shift and feel a rigidity that was previously absent.
(Pro Tip: Freeze the bearings to shrink them for an easier installation.)
Step 13:
Align and center the axle tube seal and knock it in flush with the axle tube or until it seats on the bearing.
(Pro Tip: place a small amount of silicone grease on the inner lip of the axle seal to reduce the likelihood of tearing, due to friction from a dry start.)
Step 14:
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Step 15:
Reinstall axles. You will feel the alignment of the axle splines engaging with the carrier splines. Sometimes, the axle may need a MILD nudge/whack to overcome the resistance and seat itself into the carrier assembly.
(Pro Tip: Be careful to not move the carrier or side gears until the axle shafts are in place. The clearance for the spider and side gears is large, so the gears will easily fall out of alignment if you are not careful.)
Step 16:
Install c-clips and slide the axle shafts back until the c-clip is locked into its bore within the carrier assembly.
Step 17:
Insert cross pin bolt, apply blue threadlocker, and torque to 12-20 ft/lbs.
Step 18: Clean differential housing cover face with a drill and wire wheel. Seal the inspection cover with either a cork gasket replacement or Ultra Black RTV. Install drain plug.
Step 19:
After RTV has dried amply, add approximately 2.8 quarts of 80w90 GL-5 or until the gear oil begins to run out of the fill hole.
Step 20:
Reinstall brake drums, secure wheels, lower vehicle, and torque wheels to 100 ft/lbs.
