Replace Front Brakes 2010 Jeep Patriot
In this How-to, I'll show you how to replace front brake pads+rotors on a 2010 Jeep Patriot. This process will be similar to most front brake jobs on FWD vehicles.
-Jack and stands
-Tire iron/breaker bar/impact wrench to take wheels off
-19MM 1/2" drive socket
-14mm 3/8" drive socket or wrench
-18mm 3/8" drive socket
-Large channel locks/piston push tool
-wire brush/file/angle grinder
-3/8 hand ratchet
STEP 1: Raise and support vehicle using lift points identified in your vehicle owners manual. ALWAYSUSE JACK STANDS IN PAIRS.
STEP 2: Remove front wheels. If you have access to a pneumatic or electric impact wrench, you won't have to break the lug nuts loose by hand prior to lifting the vehicle.
STEP 3: Turn the wheel fully in the direction of the side of the vehicle you're working on to gain better access to the caliper bolts you need to loosen. Remove the 2 14mm bolts holding the caliper assembly to the bracket. If one caliper bolt has a rubber insulator on it, pay attention to it's position and remember to install it in the same position.
STEP 4: Lift the caliper off the brake pads, inspect to make sure the boot around the piston is not torn/leaking brake fluid. Push the piston back using a large pair if channel locks or by using a tool as shown below. If using channel locks, place an old brake pad between the piston and jaw of your pliers to avoid damaging the caliper piston.
STEP 5: Removethe 2 18mm bolts on the caliper bracket. These may be stiff. Set aside. I like to take a piece of chalk and mark the top to remember the chalk mark corresponds to the left side of the vehicle (personal trick to avoid confusion if both brackets aren't identical)
STEP 6: Screw one lug nut onto a stud before you hammer the old rotors off the hub. This will prevent the rotor from shooting off the hub. HAMMER TIME! It's best to smack the rotor where the brake pads contact, to avoid risking damage to the studs if you miss.
STEP 7: Clean rust off the hub. Try to remove as much rust as you can. This step is vital to ensuring the new rotor will sit evenly on the hub and prevent premature rotor warping. Use an angle grinder with a soft pad, or wire brush to avoid taking material off the hub. Apply a light coat of antisieze compound to the ring of the hub to prevent future rust and corrosion from forming.
STEP 8 : Remove the old brake pads from the bracket. Discard the shims. You need to clean the bridges of the brackets. Use a pneumatic angle grinder/file/wire brush to clean this.
STEP 9: Lubricate the clean bracket bridges with the brake lubricant. A silicone-based lubricant will provide outstanding protection from the elements, and should last a very long time.
STEP 10: Install the new caliper shims and lubricate them.
STEP 11 Lubricate the caliper slide pins. Spray brake clean on the new rotor and wipe clean. New rotors are usually packaged with a light coat of oil to prevent rust during shipping/transport.
STEP 12: Install caliper bracket. Tighten to manufacturers spec. Install new brake pads, if the pads came with squeal tabs, install on the inboard (piston side)
STEP 13: Lubricate the piston and claw of the caliper.
STEP 14: Reinstall caliper. Tighten bolts to manufacturers spec.
STEP 15: Ensure all bolts are tight and spin the rotor by hand to ensure the backing plate or shims aren't touching the rotor. fix if necessary.
STEP 16: Install wheel, tighten the lug nuts by hand and then torque to manufacturer spec. Remember to pump the brake pedal until hard before driving. After new brakes are installed, follow a bed-in procedure to help break in your new brakes. This process helps create an even transfer of braking material to the rotor to assist in braking efficiency and prevent rotor warping. The first 150kms of driving after replacing brakes, no emergency stops shall be performed unless necessary.